Just got back from Colorado, where I picked up the FLHR from my Daughter's in Boulder (had left the bike there after Sturgis). Visited (briefly) a dozen states on the way home to Joisey, and made some observations. For those of you who are DocGonzo haters, please scroll down to the next message. On second thought, skip that last thought. I want someone to read this!
First, I want to thank Seajay and Netta for putting me up in Arkansas. It was very nice to hook up with a fellow digester out on the road. And a big thanks to Ol Hacker and his wife for dinner.
Some observations from the 2,200 mile trip:
The FLHR....what a great road bike. It ran beautifully, and handled the twisties of Deal's Gap as well as the super slab. It is so stable that you can lean back on the sleeping bag, let go of the handlebars, and steer by your hips. The front end tracks like a train. Not even the slightest vibration. Those Harley engineers hit the money with this model. And, as soon as I got out of the hills of Denver, it ran like a champ. The standard carburator and jetting didn't like being a mile high.
Riding the highways of the USA....this has gotten fun again! The speed limits on all the highways are either 65, 70, or even 75. You can cruise at whatever speed you want, without having to worry about the cops. In fact, I saw no speed traps on the entire trip. No cop encounters! I may have to give up my Hooligan Number! The state troopers seem to now let the cars and bikes travel the highways without too much hassle. At least through Oklahoma,Arkansas and Tennessee. Very nice. Also, I noticed on the highways that people are respecting the left hand lane again. If you come up fast on someone, they actually get over. Road Rudeness? Didn't see any of it traveling across country. Cool. Do pay attention to the speed limits in the little towns, though, if you take the back roads. These little towns deserve some respect. You shouldn't barrel through them. There are kids and little dogs walking around. Not a nice place for road kill. And you don't want to hassle with Bubba! You'll need your Cousin Vinnie.
Truckers.....Boy, I have a new respect for these guys. Barreling down the highway in one of those rigs at 80 miles per hour. On a motorcycle, it's like your riding right next to a freight train. I have nothing but respect for them. They always seemed to get over for me if I was coming up from behind, and they would signal me when it was O.K. to get back into the lane. Professionals.
Colorado.... Saw a number of fellows riding along the highway on Route 25 with there hair streaming behind there heads, lying back, cool as can ge on there Harleys. No helmets. They looked like pictures from Easy Rider Magazine. But are they smart? Or looking cool? We remember Andre Aggasi, the tennis player. "Image is Everything". Well, he got the girl, but what happened to his tennis? I think the new expression for Harley riders should be "form follows function". By the way, each of these guys was bald on the front of his head. Don't you guys realize that your hair is being pulled out by it's roots riding without the helmets? And, as you get older, you don't grow it back as easily?
New Mexico, Texas, Oklahoma....You can make good time on the highways through these states. Don't have to stop much to see the scenery. Did see a beautiful sunset in Texas. Can't believe this country. So much open space. Boy, those cows sure have it nice. Can you imagine having a yard a few hundred acres across to call your own?
Arkansas....Hey, this is just one beautiful state! Road down the Indian Nation Turnpike in Oklahoma to McAlister to catch highway 270 over to Arkansas. Also to escape the tractor trailers on route 40. 270 is a beautiful back country road through western Oklahoma, which is pretty nice. You cross the boarder and enter Quachita National Forest. Then for over 100 miles, the road is wonderful, finally ending in Hot Springs, Arkansas, birthplace of our president, Bill Clinton.
Birthplaces.....speaking of birthplaces, I got to pass through the hometowns of Garth Brooks, Troy Aikman, and Bill Clinton. Made an interesting observation. In order to get respect here on the east coast, you have to become very wealthy. Out in the midwest, it's different.
Water Towers....It appears, from visiting many small towns on my trip across the country, that the ultimate sign of success was not if you became wealthy or discovered a new medical cure. If you really make it in a small town, you get your name on the water tower. Every small town in Oklahoma has one. And each says across it's side, "Birthplace of........." You fill in the famous person from your town.
Arkansas, again.....Two of the most spectacular roads you will ever ride are route 7 and 9 just west of Little Rock, winding through the hills of the Ozarks. They are unbelievable. Had to ride route 9 up to visit with the SeaJays and the Ol Hackers in Conway. By the way, didn't have a drop of whiskey on the entire trip across the country. Will have to re-train the liver. Each night that I stopped on the road, everything was already closed. Thought I would finally get a drink in Conway, but found out it was a totally dry town. Can you believe SeaJay and 'Ol Hacker, hardcorp bikers that they are, could live in a dry town? Anyone want to start a business? I bet a Speakeasy would be dynamite there.
Tennessee....Road the 64 across the south of the state from Memphis to Chattanooga. Interesting ride, because they are in the process of building a superhighway across the state on this route. The engineering that goes into a Superhighway is pretty transparent when it gets done. However, seeing the infrastructure (drains, bridges, carving hills and granite, filling the low spots) being built is really quite remarkable. And the number of heavy equipment workers is incredible. Definitely good for the economy of the state. That's going to be the way to go across this part of the country in a couple of years!
Georgia....Route 24 dips into Georgia for about two minutes just west of Chattanooga. Looks like the reason they did this was to help the fireworks sales in Georgia. Is this one of the main things Georgia is known for besides Peaches? Wasn't there long enough to see the Captain, but maybe next time. Just have to be sure he isn't going to chain me to his pickup truck and drag me through town. "Lookie here guys, I got me a New Yawka!!!!"
Appalachian Mountains....Got off the highway at Cleveland (Tennessee) and headed up route 411 to catch 129 over Deal's Gap. It was about 6:30 p.m. when I hit the mountains, and the sun was throwing the most gorgeous warm yellow gold light on the hills. Sort of like AlpenGlow. It was beautiful. And I caught the Gap before it got dark. And on a Monday night. No cars. No other bikers. Heaven.
Deal's Gap....For those of you who don't know about the Gap, it is considered by most motorcycle enthusiasts in this country to be the best piece of twistie road in the USA. There is even a little town there that only allows motorcycles. And a clubhouse for the Dragons, a bunch of sport bike freaks that like to scream around the corners. I was in heaven. Only part missing was the sport bike. Maybe next time. It was fun, though, to scrap the floorboards on the Road Toad, which isn't easy since it has quite a bit of clearance.
Route 40 between Waynesville, N.C, and Route 81 in Tennessee.....Probably the coolest stretch of superhighway in the world. Giant major high speed sweeper turns over Bald Mountain. Newly paved, well marked, with great reflectors on the roadbed and sides of the road. Screaming 80 mile per hour sweepers on the motorcycle. All the trucks stay to the right. Do it at night! Too steep even for deer. Practice your counter steering before doing this stretch however, for it will take everything you have to stay on the road and off the sides of the 18 wheelers who are also going 80 around bends down the back side of the mountain. Who needs drugs when you can get an endorphin high like this from your own brain!!!! A definite Hooligan Road!!!!
81 North....A great road if you have to make time. And pretty nice scenery as well. It parallels the Blue Ridge Parkway for miles, and anytime you get bored, you can hook a right and pick up a stretch of the Parkway. Watch out for the greyheads on the Parkway, though. It has become a retirement home, it appears. Never saw so many old people who were still breathing....And driving! Also watch out for the deer on this stretch of road. Came around a corner at 45 during broad daylight to come face to face with a little deer parked right in the middle of the road! He got out of the way, but it was scary. Don't go faster than 45 on this road. Very dangerous. Even for a Hooligan.
Virginia....Just past Roanoke, you can take the little highway 46 east to the Blue Ridge. This is a great little road. A miniature Deal's Gap. Sign says "Not Recommended for RV's". This is a good thing. You wouldn't want to get behind an RV on this road. Then did a 40 mile section of the Blue Ridge, again bailing out towards Buena Vista to catch 81 north again. Great barbecue place in Buena Vista. Just before entering town, there is a dive called "Billy Bob's Barbecue". The locals called it the BB&B. Best pulled barbecue pork sandwich I've ever had. Can still taste it!
Virginia, West Virginia, Maryland, into Pa......Don't remember too much about this slab of 81 except for the fact that I was a little sleepy. Finally just pulled off the road next to an overpass, with the bike just behind a concrete pillar. Layed down on the inclined part of the overpass support, still in full leathers and full face helmet, and went to sleep!! This is called the Iron Butt Motel, for those of you not familiar with this kind of catnap. Highly recommended if you are getting sleepy out on the road. You fall asleep instantly, have a little REM sleep, then wake up about three minutes later, ready to go. I swear, it works! I was able to do 400 additional miles after just three minutes sleep. Cool.
Harrisburg, Pa.......Saw the most beautiful Rainbow over Harrisburg. A spectacular, full half circle thingie with the most beautiful colors I have ever seen in the sky. One of the reasons it was so beautiful was that it stood out against the black clouds behind it. Now, what's wrong with this picture? I see a beautiful rainbow right in front of me, against a beautiful black background. You guessed it. I had to drive into that black cloud! Rain suit time. Short burst of rain. Then beautiful clear sky beyond. Only got wet for three minutes on the entire trip.
Harrisburg to Allentown to Scotch Plains, N.J......Another endorphin high. Sun out, 25 mile per hour tail wind, 6:30 p.m. and home just 60 miles ahead. It was beautiful. Then sun again was throwing that beautiful late afternoon sun on the hills of eastern Pa. The trees and bushes are starting to turn, and some fantastic reds and oranges were painting the sides of the road. 70 degrees. I was cruising. The only bad part was that the ride was almost over. I wanted to turn around and go back.
End of ride.....Always try to end a ride at the end of the day, with the sun at your back, and the wind behind you. Makes for a nice finish to the day. Cruising....
For the last three hours of the trip, all I could think about was the wife, Nadja. And how I was going to have her sit on my bike naked when I got it in the garage. Definitely more motivation than the "Naked Woman, Free Beer" that got us home from MITM.
Didn't get her on the bike, but did get her Naked. THE END.
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